A blog about webcomics from a creator's perspective: making them, managing them, and exploring the medium's potential. Written by Yume-Hime's C.S. Jones.
It’s Meg for TUTOR TUESDAY! Today we look at Part 2 of last weeks tutorial! Let’s take a gander at painting trees this time! Here is Part 1 for anyone interested! If you have any tutorial recommendations lemme know here or my personal! Keep practicing, have fun, and I’ll see you next week!
Hey friends! Meg here for this weeks TUTOR TUESDAY (*cough*on Wednesday*cough*) Today we’re taking a look at some exercises on learning to see objects as forms when drawing them and not just outlines. This is Really Super Important to making accurate, dynamic pieces! If you have any rec’s send ‘em in here or to my personal! Now go forth and I’ll see you next Tuesday!
I’m by no means an expert on drawing comic environments, but I’ve been using a few specific methods to get them done which I’d like to share! These tips did pretty well on Twitter so I figured I might share them on Tumblr as well [example panels from my webcomic Shaderunners]:
First, if you’re drawing backgrounds while using straight lines/a ruler and you’re struggling with your environments looking stiff, FREEHAND! It makes everything looks more natural, even if it’s not technically always “accurate”. Here’s a comparison (old/recent):
In general environments look more real the more “imperfect” they are, This isn’t a hard and fast rule of course, and I’m sure there’s cases where a stiff quality is HELPFUL to your story - so I think being aware of the difference in effect is key!
Second, for environments there’s a little trick I like to use, and this kinda depends on your style and how rough the place you’re drawing is, but I like to add little marks and dirt to the walls, the floor, everything. It makes things feel more real/lived in.
Third, get SketchUp or a similar 3D modeling software. Drawing a comic is hard work and if you’re doing it alone some shortcuts will have to be taken - that is NOT to say that it’s cheating if you take them. It’s simply helpful.
A thing I never see talked about is how 3D modeling is a SKILL, not a magic hack. I had to get BETTER at creating environments in SketchUp and incorporating them into the comic organically. Here’s an example of an old background done with the help of SketchUp above a recent one:
There’s No Need To Colour Everything. See how in the first pic below I coloured (er, you know) every object on the shelves? Waste of time - if anything it takes away focus from the characters. Nowadays when things are small, faraway or unimportant I let them blend into the background.
Similarly, in crowd scenes I used to draw every single person and detail, thinking that it would look impressive. The result was spending hours on a panel readers would look at for two seconds. Plus, after all that work it didn’t actually end up looking like that big a crowd.
Compare that to crowd scenes I draw now – by no means perfect but I feel that leaving out details in the faraway figures makes the scene look fuller; it leaves room for the reader’s mind to fill in the gaps and imagine the crowd being bigger than is shown.
And uhh that’s it? Basically this advice is mostly little tips that can be helpful, rather than a guideline/rule. Environments in comics (to me at least) are an efficiency game, and I’m constantly thinking of ways to be economical when I work on them while also having fun!
Hopefully this was helpful to someone out there, and if you were intrigued by these panels you should check out my webcomic at @shaderunnerscomic!
Texturing is a technique that involves
adding local shading and details on surfaces to better represent the
material of an object.
This technique is of course closely linked to shading in general. This is usually applied after defining a global shading.
From left to right :
Lineart
Global shading
Completed sprite
One of the big differences between global and local shading is homogeneity. The
very principle of global shading is to give a sufficiently contrasting
effect between the shaded and lit areas to bring out volume and depth.
Conversely,
a texture must be as homogeneous as possible. It must be able to be
applied on large, uniform surfaces, without making it look bad.
2. Applying a texture
A
texture being homogeneous in terms of its luminosity/contrast, if it is
applied to an object without taking into account the global shading, we
will lose any effect of volume and depth.
A texture applied to a sphere without shading. Only the deformation of the texture can give us a clue on the shape of the object, but it is still difficult to discern.
Homogeneous contrast
When applying a texture to an object, shadows must also be taken into account. It
is therefore important to maintain a uniform contrast between colours. A
dark line separating a light zone from a dark zone should not keep the
same colour between these two zones.
The color of the line will be lighter on the lighter side and darker on
the darker side to preserve its contrast with the background.
In
the same way it is possible to apply a texture or pattern on a shaded
object, by proceeding to a simple color shifting in our palette.
Combination of a texture (left) and an object that is not textured but shaded (middle).
3. Local shading
Since shading is used to highlight the bumps, there are generally two possible cases:
A groove
A bump
Each of these cases can be more or less accentuated by playing on the colors, the intensity of shadows and lights.
On the upper line, troughs ranging from the weakest to the strongest bumps. On the second line, these are bumps that stand out.
The
mastery of these light bumps is very important, it is the basis of the
textures, and will make it possible to manage all the simple cases, such
as wood or matte plastic.
Example of application on a simple object:
4. Reflections
The application of a reflection is done in a
simple way, by applying diagonal strips of light of varying
thicknesses, and following a few rules.
A trough or bump will create an offset at the reflection level (proportional to the height change). As
for the shadows, there is no absolute, depending on the palette or the
material represented, it is possible to lighten or not the area at the
reflection level. It is also important not to have parallel light bands on faces that are not oriented in the same direction, as on this cube:
Concrete example of the application of a gold texture on our drawers:
Or, added reflections on our previous crate:
5. Dithering and granularity
Dithering consists in
creating a new false color from a checkerboard or other regular pattern
of two colors close enough to give an illusion of mixing. The closer
the colours are, the stronger the illusion will be. The more the colours
are contrasted, the stronger the granularity effect will be.
Dithering is basically used to obtain fake intermediate shades on
limited palettes, but it is also very useful for making complex and
rough textures.
Example of complex dithering separating 3 colors over a wide area.
The nature of the pattern totally changes the roughness aspect.
Example of the application of a sandy rock on our drawers:
Or add grain to our crate:
6. The art of destruction
The more complex a texture is, the more it will combine fundamental techniques such as bumpiness, reflections or granularity. However, some materials need to go further, by cutting, slash or breaking the base support.
Cuts It works much like bump, but on a much finer surface. We are subject to the same rules, of which here is a summary image:
From the finest to the most pronounced, on the first line of the cuts, and on the second of the bumps.
A concrete example on our crate:
Exercises
Since nothing beats practice to learn, here is a series of examples from the simplest to the most complicated.
For each exercise resolved, post your results.
Mastering tools
Add
a strong bump on the text of this image, except the ‘x’ which must be a
groove (the center must be dug more strongly than the rest of the ‘x’): Palette:
Add reflections on the image obtained between the two red lines shown below:
Now cut and break the letter ‘e’ as well as possible.
Add grain to the letter ‘l’.
Finalize a sprite
Texturize/colorize this sprite: Palette:
Add reflections on the inside of the doors to give the impression that there are windows.
Add damage (cuts etc) on the right side of the wardrobe.
Make a variant of this cabinet by redoing it in gold using the palette of the gold drawers example in the tutorial. Palette:
WebGL Wateris a great water simulator, with a sphere that can interact with the water’s surface. It can be paused which means you can then use it as a reference for lighting, reflections, refractions, etc.
HUGE SHOUTOUT TO DARE BRITT FOR PUTTING PASTA IN HER WACOM PEN AND SAVING MY LIFE
(yes the picture above is done using a spagetti for a nib and it works)
yes it bloody works, we can finally be poor artists
A recent meme post actually confirmed you can use spagetti as nibs for your wacom and it works just fine! it actually fucking works and wow.
By far, this is one of the best life hacks an artist could find.
yes, this means you won’t have to worry about buying new nibs for your wacom, horray!
THIS NEEDS A BOOST
WHAT THE FUCK
This pen is ancient
They don’t sell nibs for it anymore and I’m SCREAMING
Pressure works
TILT WORKS (!!!??!!!)
REBLOG TO SAVE A LIFE
HOW ABOUT WE DON’T?
Taken from user Cinnabees:
Guys, I keep seeing that post going around about putting uncooked spaghetti noodles in your tablet pen to work as replacement nibs, and I know OP means well and stuff, but PLEASE DON’T DO THAT.
Pasta, no matter how smooth it is, is still a product of dry flour, and rubbing it down on a surface creates micro-sized grit that will scratch up your screen faster than any tablet nib, and they wear down even faster, so it won’t even be worth it. Also, it’s so brittle, if it breaks inside the pen, it will be difficult to clean it out.
Tablet nibs are a pain to replace and buy, but buying a 10 pack of them for $7-8 on Amazon is going to be a better choice than having to pay a heftier sum to repair a scratched up tablet surface/screen.
Spread this post if you can, because I’d really hate to see someone accidentally damage their tablets this way.
YEAH HOLY SHIT DO NOT FUCKING DO THIS TO YOUR SCREEN TABLETS UNLESS YOU WANT DEAD PIXELS AND MICRO SCRATCHES ALL OVER YOUR SCREEN CREATING ACTUAL DEAD ZONES WHERE YOUR PEN WONT ACTUALLY DRAW ANYMORE like that’s a fucking LIGHTNING FAST way to destroy your 1000-3000$ piece of hardware
And there we go. Debunked.
Lmao yeah please don’t scrape your $2000 screen with spaghetti
You can get nibs for a lot of tablets for less than 10bux on Newegg. Please try that.
If you absolutely cannot find nibs for your tablet pen anywhere, please consider weedeater line DIY nibs before you fuck up your tablet with pasta.
Likes can only go so far for artists. Artists may exclusively upload their artwork to tumblr, or don’t have the time to use other sites and prefer tumblr over deviantART due to its simplicity, but the tagging system can make it harder to navigate. Many artists on tumblr tag with high-traffic tags or use their own tags to prevent tag clogging which eventually become lost. That’s why it’s very important to reblog an artist’s work.
I’m not trying to push you to ruin your blog’s aesthetic or something, nor am I saying that “you must absolutely reblog your favourite artist’s work or you’re trash”, all I’m saying is if you truly want to support your favourite artist, instead of just liking their posts, try to reblog them once in a while. The more reblogs they receive, the more exposure/notes/followers they may receive, and it’s just one of the easiest ways to show you care about them.
*This does not mean to reblog unsourced artwork or works reuploaded to another person’s blog without permission (re:stolen). Nor does this mean to reblog artworks without the artist’s consent, even if this case is slim.
Reblogging is vital if you want your favorite artists to keep on making the art you love! Reblog forever~~~
<3
It means even more when friends reblog your art as well. It shows your support for them as not only their friend but as an artist. I try to reblog all my friends posts promoting their art/products when I see them. <3
hello i am here today to not lose track of the art cheats i have discovered over the years. what i call art cheat is actually a cool filter/coloring style/way to shade/etc. that singlehandedly makes art like 20 times better
Hey friends, Meg here for WOOPS IT’S WEDNESDAY! Today we’re taking a look at how to study values and the importance of knowing how to use them! It’s not all about color, you know. If you have any tutorial recommendations send ‘em in here or my personal. Now go forth and I’ll see you next week!
Amazing tutorial by my favorite! Definitely follow @rawranansi!
Great information on value, which is essential to learning art.
First off, I recommend studying posing and composition first. I have a lot of resources on that already, but off the top of my head, visit this pose tool site for sure! (and this for speed drawing gesture practice). This will help you develop your own poses for fight scenes and understand anatomy/range of motion.
Specifically for fight/action scenes, here’s what a found:
same idea but go to random stock websites/google images and look up fight scenes and try to see if you can break down the perspective/anatomy/ and composition of the images. useful for inspiration as well
This is how I draw hands. I simplify the shape and then later I will add the necessary details. It makes it easier to get them right. But the only way to learn how to draw hands is to just keep drawing them.